A short five day field trip to the Highlands, arranged by our British and American colleagues, was a great opportunity to revisit Askja and Kverkfjöll and see the most recent lava in Iceland, Holuhraun, which erupted in 2014-15. At Askja, I really wanted to get to the southeastern side of Lake Öskjuvatn where we had seen fumaroles the year before. We eventually found one after a long hike, close to the site of a massive 2014 landslide. At Kverkfjöll, we made one more attempt to find the source of the the hot Hveragil river, something we had failed at twice before. After a successful detour, we descended to a portion of the river at 100 m higher altitude to where we had stopped the last time – only to find a cold meltwater stream! This time we had to track downstream – and stopped at an impassable cliff just before the part of the canyon where the source of the Hveragil must be located. Next time, climbing gear...